Boom for Tabletop Tripod

Frequently, I need to examine books on-site.  Often, the combination of low and mixed light sources made it difficult to get good enough digital images for notes.  So I’ve built a  lightweight boom that attaches to the Giottos QU-400 tabletop tripod.  Although this boom cannot support a DSLR, there are some high end point and shoot cameras, such as the Nikon P6000 and Cannon G10, that have manual shooting modes and RAW capability.  These cameras do not meet the recommended minimum standards of practice for documentation according to the AIC Guide to Digital Photography and Conservation Documentation, but they are very useful for visual note taking or emergency response.  I am continually surprised by the difference in seeing when actually looking at an object, and when  looking at a blown up digital image. 

tripod overview

 

The tripod and  boom weigh in at  1lb. 0.7 oz (472 grams) and collapse into a small bundle about 12 inches long. A weight or small clamp is necessary to keep the tripod from tipping.  The shot below was around the equivalent of a 28 mm lens, which accounts for the distortion.  Conservatively, the largest undistorted area is about 12 x 9 inches (30 x 23cm). It is also possible to position it off the edge of a table for a larger field of view, about 36 x 24 inches (92 x 61 cm).

tripod view

 

tripod close up

The boom itself is pretty easy to construct and all the parts can be ordered from McMaster-Carr.  A drill press, hacksaw and some aluminum files are the only tools required.  I drilled and tapped tapped a 1″ block of 6061 T6 Aluminum 1/4-20 to mount on the head, and 10-32 for the brass thumbscrew. The 1/2″ boom rod is hard anodized Al, again tapped 1/4-20 to mount the camera and a small 6-32 set screw to hold the short threaded rod.  The knurled portion of the thumbscrew was coated with a commercial rubber dip tool handle coating to provide more friction for easy tightening.  

I experimented with a number of materials, and this combination, with the softest part being the brass screw, next the 6061 block and the hardest the rod.  The end of the thumbscrew shows some distortion, but it is easy to replace.  It seemed most important to maintain the concentric profile of the rod for smooth, even operation.  After a couple of weeks of hard use, I can’t detect any deterioration.

New Stool

Last weekend I purchased a new stool for my studio.  I find stools without wheels much more comfortable than ones with wheels, because they can be used for leaning against while you are working, as well as sitting on.  But except for sewing, some paper repairs and headbanding I tend to stand.  

The stool looks industrial, possibly from the 1920’s and should last at least another century.  The remains of a label are difficult to make out,  “xxxx/ Steel/ Furniture/ Toledo/ USA”  in a center circle, surrounded by “Metal / Furniture/ Quality/ Strength”.  I paid way too much for it, especially since the wood seat was refinished, but admired the graceful curves of its riveted construction, and hadn’t seen one like it before.  The seat is quite comfortable, in part because it is much wider than most modern wooden stools and not as dished out in the center.  It is adjustable by using the lever under it and ball bearings allow it to spin freely.  The foot ring is most likely the most comfortable aspect, since it protrudes outward far enough from the stools legs to allow space for a shoe or to just catch your heal on.