1. Send me an email (jeffrey<dot>peachey<at>gmail <dot>com listing (A) the items you want, (B) how many, and (C) your shipping address. Also, let me know if you want to pay via Paypal (or a credit card) or send me a check. $70 minimum order.
  2. I’ll let you know if they are in stock, or when I can make them. I will also let you know the total cost with shipping.








This delrin lifting tool is useful for general lifting, mechanical backing removal, and whenever you need to gently pry or delaminate something.  Great for book and paper conservators. Although it is thicker than the carbon fiber lifter I also make, it has a slightly lower coefficient of friction, so slides a bit better. It also seems to take a little sharper edge.  More rigid than teflon with better edge retention. The edge is easy to maintain by sanding or scraping. More images.  It is always useful to have a wide range of tools to deal with specific problems.


LONG (Preferred by Paper Conservators, roughly 12 x 1 x .125″):  $40

SHORT (Preferred by Book Conservators, roughly 8 x 1 x .125″):  $35



delrin 2

This folder is carefully designed to accomplish all the general uses a bookbinder or conservator has: scoring, folding, turning-in, applying non-marring local pressure, large scale smoothing. The small rounded tip area is shipped slightly blunt, but it can be sharpened if you prefer. Delrin is hard and stiff like bone, but has a coefficient of friction similar to Teflon. It can hold a much thinner and sharper edge than Teflon, though is not as hard as bone. It has a nice, non-plasticy feel. I saw, file, scrape and polish these from a solid block of Delrin.  More images and information.

DELRIN FOLDER (6.25-6.5 x 1 x .375 inch):  $70.00



delrin hera3

Top view and side view of delrin hera.


delrin hera

Flexibility of the tip.

This is one of the tools I use the most. It is almost always in my hand while working: to gently score tissue for repairs, delicate prying, inserting small amounts of adhesive, etc…. It fills a nice gap between a steel spatula and a bamboo hera (available below).  It is nicely flexible, great for manipulating deteriorating paper and during paper repairs.  I also use it during photography to hold things in place, since it is clean and white. It also does not rust. It is softer than steel, more appropriate for paper.

SMALL DELRIN HERA (5.75-6 x .25 x .25 inch): $40.00




Similar to the delrin hera, though this tool is rigid. The tip is fairly sharp. Useful for wedging and prying operations, great for holding covering material during a reback or opening a split board. Also large enough to use for general folding and smoothing operations. Between .375″ x 6- 6.75″ length.




ely edge knife

This knife, designed by Tim Ely, is specifically designed for cutting the edges of a text block. Many bookbinders do not have a massive guillotine or a reliable plough. Artist Tim Ely has been using a round French or Swiss style knife for some time to precisely cut edges. He grew increasingly frustrated at the edge retention of commonly available knives, and found the handle interfered with this different use of the knife. For the past year or so, we have been exchanging ideas and at this point I am pleased to announce The Ely Edge Knife is available for sale. More information here. The Ely Edge Knife. Overall length 9-9.5 inches, 1.5 inches wide. Top mounted hardwood handle 7 inches long. The blade is A2 steel, Rc 63, 13 degree single bevel.





A loaded stick (aka knocking down stick) is great for firmly compressing signatures while sewing. A gentle tapping can accomplish this task much more effectively (and safely, I might argue) than leveraged pressure.  This stick has a comfortable waxed cherry handle and a brass head.  The head is screwed into the handle and gently rounded on the edges to avoid damaging the leaves. This tool has a wonderful balance. The head is 2 inches (5cm) long, 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, and .75 inch (1.75 cm) thick.  It is generally used on the wide portion, though the narrow area can be used if the supports are closely spaced, or there are specific areas that need more compression. Overall length 10 inches (25 cm), and overall weight is approximately 8 ounces (230 g).

LOADED STICK:  $150.00




This scalpel is useful for a variety of scraping and detailed cutting tasks. The blade has a convex bevel, the the sides of the blade are carefully rounded to make it comfortable to hold. More images and information. The high carbon steel is hardened to between Rc 50-55, is 1.5 inches long (40mm), 1/16″ (15mm) thick, and the hardwood handle 5.5 inches (140mm) long.  The knife is about .5 inches wide at the widest part. Overall length about 7 inches (180mm) and weighs .7 oz (20g), though the weight varies and depends primarily on the species of the wood handles, which vary.




This Sharpening System is a quick and convenient way to sharpen,  resharpen and keep all your knives and edge tools in peak condition, from scalpels to scimitars, plane blades to plough blades. I use it to make all the knives in this catalog. It is a lightweight, easy to store, unbreakable, and there is nothing to rust. Perfect for travel and classroom use.  No expensive stones to dish out, glaze over, or break. The 3M finishing film cuts all modern high tech steels quickly, using water as a lubericant.

New features on this third version feature Delrin plates for easy removal of used finishing film, a gorgeous tightening knob, and larger feet for added stability. I’ve tested this new system for over a year for all the knives I make. Verdict? Excellent, IMHO.


Sharpening System 3. End view with Delrin plates.

First, and most importantly, the support plates for the microfinishing film are now made of Delrin instead of aluminum.  This makes it possible to easily peel off the worn finishing film without using solvents or a fair amount of elbow grease. It stays flat and doesn’t dish out. The microfinishing film sticks securely when in use. The Delrin plates are first machined, then hand lapped. They are 12″ long, 2″ wide, and 3/4″ thick.



Sharpening System 3. Detail of the precision knob.

The second upgrade is to the adjustment knob.  Previously, it was simply tapped through the end of the stand, with a coarse thread.  The new adjustment knob is made from stainless steel, has a very fine pitch, threaded through a phosphor bronze bushing. There is virtually no backlash. The end of the threaded rod contains a rounded ball, which prevents torquing of the plate while tightening. I’ll be the first to confess that this optical grade adjuster is not absolutely necessary, but, man, it is nice! It feels like a manual focus Leica lens.

Precise and accurate tools help perform precise and accurate work. At least, this is how I rationalize expensive tools… .

Finally, in order to make the stand a bit more stable, the hard rubber feet are now one inch wide, with a flatter profile, giving more anti-slip contact with your bench. They can also adjust a bit if it is necessary to level the stand.

Sharpens all of these

Sharpen just about anything with this system.

This is the system I use to make and sharpen all of my knives. People often ask how long each abrasive sheet lasts, and although there are many variables, I’d guess I can generally sharpen about 10-12 knives on each one. Of course, if you are trying to reshape a bevel angle or repair a major chip you might use up an entire coarse sheet. When a sheet is exhausted, simply peel it off and stick a new one one. You must trim the edges of the edges of the finishing film when you put a new sheet on, so that it does not overhang the edges. Otherwise it may give you one of the nastiest, dirtiest, slow-healing cuts you have ever had, DAMHIKT.

Replacement 80 micron film is available from Rio Grande; the 40, 15 and 5 micron from Tools for Working Wood.



The system contains everything you need: an aluminum sharpening stand, two Delrin plates, four 11 x 2″ strips each of 80, 40, 15 and 5 micron 3M PSA micro finishing film, a 12 x 2″  Genuine Horsebutt Strop, and 1 oz. bar of green chromium oxide honing compound.






The carbon fiber lifter is a new tool to aid a conservator when mechanically lifting covering material, pastedowns and general delaminating.  Lifting knives, teflon tools, micro spatulas, teflon coated tools, and bamboo hera all have their place in a conservator’s arsenal. The carbon fiber lifter is between a teflon folder and bamboo in feel: much thinner and more rigid than teflon, stronger than bamboo and it slides easier. Very strong and flexible, though not indestructable. Great for paper, weak cloth, heavily embossed cloth, and lumpy, uneven boards.  It is flexible, yet provides unparalleled control even when it is in deep.  It is designed to slide between and separate adhered materials, but the blade is not really strong enough to split a board, like a knife can do.  The carbon fiber lifter is designed for sliding and prying lifting techniques.  I’ve also found it useful for reversing previous “repairs” like gluing a cloth case spine to the text block, given its thinness and long length. The cutting edge is rounded at the tip. The edge can be easily sanded to alter or repair the bevel, but I strongly recommend respiratory protection and gloves. MSDS. Additionally, the carbon fiber looks very cool. Materials: Woven carbon fiber embedded in epoxy. More images. Weight: .3 oz (8 grams)  Size: 1 x 12 x .030 inches (25 x 300 x .75mm)




This new fixture is small, lightweight, and designed for the workbench It quickly and easily adjusts from 15 to 60 degrees, locks securely into place by a built in handle, and provides a more rigid support than foam. This fixture that holds the book, or boards, open in a wide variety of positions to reduce strain while performing treatments.   The small size permits it to be used inside a book to work on board edges and corners. It can also be used to support a textblock upright when rebacking or humidifying warped vellum boards, although additional weights may be necessary to stabilize it.  I use this fixture constantly, from initial examination throughout the treatment. The natural, translucent .25 inch thick polypropylene platens are lined with an easily replaceable .0625 inch thick closed cell polyethylene foam ( aka. Volara). The adjustment mechanism is 6061 T6 aluminum and a comfort grip handle, which has a lower profile than the platens at any angle, so that relatively large books can be supported. More information here.

BOOK JACK: $175.00 for one, or $325.00 per pair



book fixture

A jig  guides a tool, whereas a fixture supports the workpiece – in this case is a bound book. Increasingly, much of a book conservator’s work involves working in-situ without disbinding a textblock. This fixture safely and securely supports the parts of the book not being worked on while treating pages. The idea for this fixture was originally developed by Raymond Jordan, Senior Book Conservator at Trinity College, Dublin.  It supports the text-block and board, so that the spine and sewing structure is not stressed while work is done on the pages; repairing tears, media consolidation, flattening dogeared corners, dry cleaning, etc…. . Perfect for books with fragile sewing, brittle pages, or any time gentle, secure support is needed when working on bound items. It simplifies and speeds up the treatment process when many pages of a text-block need attention. The bed size is 12 x 17 inches, a heavy anti-tipping 1.5” thick, and the maximum supplied thickness books is 6 inches. Fits octavo through folio books. If a thicker book is encountered, extension pieces can be purchased for a nominal charge. This support can be used with oversize books with slight modifications, instructions included. Adjustable arm levers allow a full range of clamping angles with no additional tools necessary. The front page bar is hinged to allow quick page turns. The uprights hinge from 0 degrees (parallel to the bed) to 180 degrees. Constructed out of aircraft grade plywood with a 1.5” thick base to resist tipping, polypropylene and clear anodized 6105-T5 aluminum. Custom sizes available. Click here for more photos (of an earlier version) and information.




A2 New Logo

A2 Wood

These are A2 cryogenically treated knives.  Slightly wider than the previous model, and excellent for all around paring applications, The handles are hardwood or leather select leather, and the blade angle is 55 degrees. These knives are excellent for goatskin, chrome tanned leathers, abrasive calf and alum tawed skin. The wood handle is ergonomically shaped for comfort. Horsebutt blade cover included. Fully sharpened, 13 degree bevel angle.  They measure 7 x 1.5 x .094″ (approx. 180 x 38 x 2.4mm). HRC 62. Right hand.





These are traditional Japanese hera, Then are very thin, flexible, and primarily for paper conservation, but it is useful for some book restoration and conservation techniques.   Useful for lifting, delaminating, gentle scraping, inserting adhesive into laminates, pressing paint flakes during consolidation, backing removal. More gentle than steel, more rigid than plastics. Made from heat treated Tonkin bamboo. Variable sizes, about 5″ – 6″ x .25″ (125 -150 x 7mm.)



SMALL FROE OR HACKING KNIFE This is not really a bookbinding tool, but is used to split wood or bamboo to make tools.  I use this to make to split the bamboo to make hera, and  it also works great with wood or bone, due to the wedge shape of the blade. It almost has enough weight to use as a little hatchet. Tool steel, I’m not sure what kind, but it is fully hardened.  Roughly 7″ x 1.3″ (180 x 35mm) and a massive 8.4 oz. or 239 g.  Limited supply, once they are gone, I doubt I will be able to find more at this price. No blade cover, no handle, just a solid chunk of steel.

FROE: $100.00






The Nokey Sewing frame, uses adjustable buttons to attach the sewing supports.  Click here for a brief history of sewing frames and more details about the Nokey. The Nokey is easy to set up and quick adjustment of  spacing for all types of sewing supports- tapes, single and double cords, thongs, etc….,  folds flat for convenient dust free storage and transportation, only 2.25″ thick. It is solidly constructed of aluminum and plywood, this is the most rigid sewing frame ever made. The current design features an adjustable top bar and squeezes in more usable sewing space with the same overall dimentions  The uprights unfold and  stop at exactly 90 degrees, then are tightened with a hex head driver. In use, sewing starts at the edge of the sewing board, making it easy to begin sewing and sew in the round. Rubber feet keep even small size frame from sliding around on the bench. The minimum distance between supports is 1 inch.  The buttons which attach supports tighten and loosen with a 5/32″ simple hex head driver, which is included. Partially sewn books can be quickly removed and replaced, which make the Nokey ideal for  schools. Custom sizes and additional buttons available, please inquire. The crossbar can be repositioned to economize length of sewing supports.

Available in four sizes:

1.  Travel Nokey. 13.25 x 9.25 x 2″, folded. About 4 lbs. 12″ between the uprights, 6.5″ between crossbar and base. Supplied with 10 button attachments for sewing on up to 5 supports. Images.

2. Small Nokey. 17 x 12 x 2″, folded.  About 8 lbs. 16″ between uprights, 10″ between crossbar and base. Supplied with 10 button attachments for sewing on up to 5 supports.

3. Medium Nokey.  21 x 12 x 2″ folded. About 11 lbs.  20″ between uprights, 10″ between crossbar and base.  Supplied with 10 button attachments for sewing on up to 5 supports.  

4. Large Nokey.   25 x 12 x 2″, folded. About 13 lbs.  24″ between uprights, 10″ between crossbar and base.  Supplied with 14 buttons for attachments for sewing on up to 7 supports.

1. NOKEY TRAVEL: $350.00

2. NOKEY SMALL: $400.00

3. NOKEY MEDIUM: $425.00

4. NOKEY LARGE: $450.00



Woodcut printed in violet ink, open edition, graphite corrections additions, Stonehenge Fawn paper, 250 gsm, 9.5 x 11.5 inches.




 A and B have a roughly 45 degree blade angle, and are useful for paring.  C and D are a round and Powell style lifting shape.  E and F are roughly a 6j5 degree blade angle, and I use these for leveling materials, general trimming and paring.  The lifting knives are useful for lifting turnins and covering material when rebacking, and are useful for paper conservation tasks such as paring and mechanical removal of backing materials.

M2 hacksaw blade. At only .021″ thick and .5″ wide, these flexible knives are useful for a variety of delicate tasks.  Great for miniature binding and inlays.  6″ length with a 2″ blade (uncovered steel).

FLEXIBLE MINI KNIFE (Specify style, A through F): $80.00/ each



This is the knife I personally use most of the time.  This knife is made from M3 all-hard hacksaw blade. I find the M2 steel is quicker to sharpen and strop back into shape.  The edge holding ability is outstanding, great for slightly smaller hands. Since the handle is mounted on the top of the blade, you can hold the knife at a very shallow angle for long, even bevels and edge paring. M2 All Hard Machine Hacksaw blade. RHC 64. Comfortable wood carved handle with facets for easy, ergonomic gripping covered in comfortable vegetable tanned leather. The handle area is about 1/2” thick at the thickest area. 7 x 7/8 x .048”  Specify right or left hand model.

M2 PARING KNIFE (Right or Left): $180.00/ each



Round Knife


These are the large A2 Cryo knives with a rounded, Swiss or French style blade.  The handle material is select hardwoods, in this case ebony.   These knives are excellent for goatskin, chrome tanned leathers, abrasive calf and alum tawed skin. Horsebutt blade cover included. Fully sharpened, 13 degree bevel angle. HRC 62. They measure 6.5 x 1.125 x .094″ (approx. 170 x 28 x 2.4mm)  and weigh 4.3 oz (123g).




SMALL A2 KNIVES These are the new small paring knives, made from A2 Cryrogenic tempered tool steel.  Awesome for delicate or intricate paring. Some test results of various steels are posted here. The handle material is leather or hardwood. Horsebutt blade cover included. Fully sharpened, 13 degree bevel angle. HRC 62. They measure 6 x .625 x .094″ ( 150 x 15 x 2.4 mm) .  Available in round, right and left hand shapes.

A2 SMALL WOOD  (Specify right, round or left): $165.00/ each

A2 SMALL LEATHER (Specify right, round or left): $110.00/ each



It doesn’t look like much, but this 1.4 oz. bar of micro fine grade .5 micron chromium oxide buffing compound is the easiest way I have found to keep knives in tip top shape.   When used with a horse butt strop, which seems to have just the right amount of compressibility, and followed by a couple of strokes on naked vegetable tanned calfskin.  I keep stropping my knife until it reaches the point where it may look shiny, it doesn’t cut anymore, and I need to run through a resharpening progression of stones. The one ounce size should last a couple of years; large bars can dry out and become crumbly if stored for too many years. You just draw them onto the leather, like scribbling with a crayon. In a pinch just use some binders board. I’m now selling these, and they come as part of the sharpening set.




I have been collecting strops for a number of years, and all of the best crafted and those in the best condition all are made of horse butt. Mounted on 3/4” Hardwoods with a handhold area at one end. The dense nature of the horse butt makes it possible to strop narrow or round tools without damaging the surface of the skin. 17” overall length, 15” horsebutt, 2.5” wide. Two pieces mounted on hardwood. Also available unmounted in 15″ x 3″ and 12″ x 2″.


LARGE HORSE BUTT (15” x 3”): $25.00

SMALL HORSE BUTT (12″ x 2″): $15.00



This is a reproduction of a French Frottoir  that I saw in 2009. I find it a superb tool for backing books, giving precise control yet quick manipulation.  Made from Brass, Alloy 360.  Its heft, 16 oz (460g) aid in straightening cords, smoothing sewing threads and other irregularities.  More information about this tool is in this blog post. Much more gentle than a hammer, it is especially useful when dealing with old textblocks.  7 3/4 x 2 7/8 x 1/2″ (190 x 45  x 1.25mm)

FROTTOIR: $200.00



Both of the knives are made from O1 steel, hardened to about HRC 58.  This steel and hardness results in a durable edge for the prying and cutting, while A2 chips to easily.  The knives are hand sharpened, rounded and polished, with no handle, so they can be used under water for backing removal.  They are based on a Roger Powell design, are perfect for lifting covering material, splitting boards, and mechanical backing removal. They can used by right and left handers.  These knives will pay for themselves the first time you successfully lift something without having to do additional repairs. Both are 6″ long, and 1/16″ thick. The large knife is 1″wide, and perfect for lifting covering materials, splitting boards and mechanical backing removal.  If you are a paper conservator, and normally remove backing material with a scalpel, you will find this knife much more efficient, and safer for the user and the artifact. The small 1/2″ knife is perfect for smaller books, turnins, lifting spines between raised bands, etc…. The rounded, beveled corners allow you to twist the knife when cutting through slips, for example. These knives are also useful for paring the edges of removed spines. These knives are the perfect union of quality, simplicity and functionality.   The set includes two knives and a folding leather case, held together with magnets and protects the blades when not in use. Set of two with case.




modified 151 spokeshave

Modified 151 spokeshave with shaving collector. It also functions as a stand when the shave is flipped upside down.

modified 151 spokeshave1

The rounded sole.

modified 151 spokeshave2

Note that the shaving collector does not interfere with thumb and forefinger placement.

English trained bookbinders often use a modified spokeshave for long shallow bevels, spine paring, and beveling binder’s board. I’ve improved the design of my 151 style spokeshave for leather work. It now features a shaving collector, which I first saw James Brockman use 1990’s. He kindly shared the design with me. He mentioned he first saw it while working at Roger Powell’s shop in the late 1960’s or early 1970’s. The shaving collector really speeds up work with the spokeshave, since you don’t have to stop and vacuum the stray shavings every couple of minutes. And they don’t get trapped under your leather, which can cause holes of tearing.

Other modifications include: reducing the effective cutting angle by grinding the base, truing the adjustment knobs are trued, rounding and lessening the surface area of the sole, opening the mouth a bit, flattening the blade bed by filing and filling with epoxy, flattening the blade cap, replacing the original blade with at PM-V11 one, reground to a lower angle, sharpened and the corners slightly rounded.

All of these modifications help eliminate chatter and made it easier to use, parallel or perpendicular to the edge of the leather.  Even if you rough out the leather with a Scharffix or  Brockman leather paring machine, this spokeshave helps you quickly and evenly reduce the unavoidable ridges between overlapping cuts or blade changes.   More information about spokeshaves for leather.


MODIFIED SPOKESHAVE BLADE (Extra modified and sharpened PM-V11 blade): $85.00




This handy 45-degree triangle is a full quarter inch thick, so it can sit upright on the bench. I designed this in 2002. It also features a removable nickel-plated brass thumbscrew and beveled edges for comfortable handling. It is a great size for most bookbinding and boxmaking needs. Height, a bit less than 2”. Thickness 1/4”




This is a very useful tool for accurately mitering corners. Great for production work. A small knob allows adjustment for 20 – 200 pt. board thickness. This jig allows butt joining of cloth, paper, vellum or leather. Instructions for use included. Bronze and cherry. 4” cutting width.

CORNER CUTTING JIG (Wood bottom, brass top part, not pictured): $150.00



This bookbinders bradawl has a 2″ x .093″ diameter M2 high speed steel blade sharpened into a chisel point. This steel holds an edge well when dealing with abrasive binders board. This diameter fits most common cord thicknesses, and by twisting it the hole can be enlarged. The sharp edge can also scratch a line. The 3 inch pear shaped ebony handle with a Danish Oil finish fits comfortably in the hand, tapering gracefully from 1.25″ at the thickest point, to .375″ where the brass ferrule joins the handle to the blade.

BRADAWL: $75.00



This tool makes it easy to cut the sewing thread inside signatures without damaging the paper. The outside curve of the tool is also useful for scraping glue remains. All hard hacksaw, approximately 6 x 5/8 x .030”




It may look crude, but it is very useful. This tool is very useful for rebacking and inserting cloth hinges into lifted or slotted board. It is not sharpened; instead the end is a 90 degree angle- this lets you push the material to be inserted without tearing through it. The angled sides also let you move the material sideways. The rounded tip is .150” deep to use as a guide for judging the depth of a slotted board. The hook part of the tip is useful for cleaning out slots. The comfortable sanded horsebutt handle will develop a nice patina through use. All hard hacksaw, approximately 6 x 7/16 x .023”





The Miniature Bookbinding Tool set is once again available for sale. I took a couple of years off to rest up my fingers, and now have a set for sale.  The tools are 1/6th scale, i.e. the Delrin sharpening plate on the left is two inches long, not twelve. These tools are made from the same materials the larger ones are, but please don’t expect to actually use them, they are much too small to hold comfortably. They are for the miniature book enthusiasts (you know who you are) or a gift for the binder who has everything. Seventeen tools are included, l-r: a Delrin sharpening plate, Peachey style French knife, Flexible paring knife, bone folder, small Powell shaped lifting knife, heart shaped finishing tool, brass triangle, engineers square, bookbinder’s hammer, swiss style paring knife, pallet, dissection scalpel, large Powell shaped lifting knife, French paring knife, cord wrapped paste brush, English style paring knife, and a strop. Supplied in a cherry box.

Miniature Bookbinding Tool Set: $800.00



“I love Peachey tools.  Although I’m not a conservator, I do enjoy making/binding books and quickly realized that good tools are essential.  Peachey knives certainly make it easy to pare leather successfully, but equally important are the Nokey sewing frame, the corner cutting jig, and the little bronze triangle.  I use them all, they feel good in my hands, and my work continues to improve.  Thanks, Jeff!”  Ann Poe, editor

“Your Sharpening System is marvelous! I have sore fingers but very sharp knives, thank you.” Deborah Evetts, Deborah Evetts Book Conservation, LLC.

“Nearly 40 years ago I made my first sewing frame out of scrap wood.  It rocked back and forth like an old table but it taught me the value of the sewing frame as a tool and I’ve never been without one since.  I now have three in my shop.  The Nokey Sewing Frame is a real innovation, taking the best of a traditional design and adapting it to new materials and needs. It is actually fun to use.  The button screws make for very fast and easy setup. And it’s versatile enough to accommodate nearly all the variations on supported sewing I can think of for general bookbinding as well as conservation work. Well designed and well made with high quality materials, this is quite simply a great tool.” John Townsend, aka Anonymous Bookbinder

“Your English paring knife is wonderful! For the first time since I started to work in leather, I felt my knife slip through the leather smoothly and evenly. Now I get strips of pared leather instead of fluff and flakes. I will certainly recommend your knives.” Happily, Tawn O’Connor

“Just to say thank you so much for the Bradawl and lifting knife- they’re both beautiful.The Bradawl will be really useful for some of the model making I want to do at the moment and the lifting knife is just perfect for the work I’m doing on the Turkish collection (it’s the only tool that can lift incredibly thinly pared Turkish leather)!”   Kristine Rose, Book Conservator, Chester Beatty Library, Dublin.

“In a Katmandu museum I saw a cannon barrel made from leather- which had been well fired- so I wasn’t surprised by the thick hardness of the “Genuine Horse Butt” Strop”  Chris Pye, review in “Wood Carving”, July/ Aug 2004, No. 79

“I’ve used an English-style straight blade lifting knife for twenty years, and only tried Jeff’s lifting knives on a whim. I still use the straight-edged English knife occasionally, but now use Jeff’s knives for most lifting. The small lifting knife is particularly useful between the bands. His tools are a pleasure to hold in your hand.”   James Reid-Cunningham, Chief Conservator of the Boston Athenaeum

“The paring knife is light and dexterous. It holds an edge well and when you get used to sharpening the curve, is a great improvement on my previous English styled knife.”  Peter Geraty, Praxis Bindery, Easthampton, MA.

“This little knife fills a large gap in my set of knives. With it, pulling  books down for rebinding becomes a much less onerous chore as it effortlessly slips under the threads to be cut and the back doubles as a gentle scraper for cleaning the spine folds.”  Peter Verheyen, Book Conservator and Binder, Syracuse, NY.

“The quality and craftsmanship you put into each of your tools is an inspiration for all bookbinders. It makes us to push our work to the next level. A good tool inspires good work; a great tool inspires great work; Jeff’s bookbinding tools are in the later category.”  Eric Alstrom, Collections Conservator, Michigan State University Libraries

“Using this knife (the peachey paring knife), with its ingenious curve, makes the one I’ve used for the past 25 years seem inadequate.”  Jerrilyn Glen Davis, Conservator, NYC.

“Having recently acquired a collection of 16,000 miniature books and beginning to address their conservation needs, I was excited to hear of Jeff’s set of small lifting and paring knives. Now that I have them I find myself using them not only on miniature books but on larger books as well. The rounded blade is great for lifting delicate pastedowns when rebacking.” Jim Canary, Conservation Department, Lilly Library, IN.

“I am impressed with the quality of the metal and the finish. The handle is very comfortable.”  William Minter, Book Conservator, PA.

“The corner knife is well-made and perfectly designed to cut out excess leather when turning in corners. It feels good to hold it and I would not use anything else now that I have been spoiled by this knife.”  Ann Hillam, Book Conservator, New York Academy of Medicine, NYC.

“I like your knives very much.  I have the medium [narrow swiss knife] and the small one [curved mini knife] and use them for special paring of onlays or edges of leather. They are very comfortable in my hand.  I recommend them to anyone that wants to pare leather well.”  Monique Lallier, Designer Bookbinder, Summerfield, NC.

“Jeff’s knives are always within easy reach at my bench; they are far and away the best and most interesting specialty bookbinding tools being made today and its difficult remembering how I worked without them. He’s a National Treasure! Especially with edged tools Jeff has the talent for designing the right ones for the right jobs.” James Tapley, Hand Bookbinder, Sarasota, Fl.

“Well made, sharp … excellent materials … thoughtful design.” Maria L. Fredericks, Drue Heinz Book Conservator, Thaw Conservation Center  The Pierpont Morgan Library, NYC.

I have been using the Peachey paring knife for some years now and I highly recommend it. I have many knives and find that when a sensitive edge is needed the knife meets all the demands that my projects have. The same is true of the corner jig, it is invaluable and truly speeds up the work. And as all of Jeff’s tools are elegantly designed, they are a pleasure to own and use. Basically Jeff’s tools are among the best I own and will ultimately become heirlooms of the bindery.”  Tim Ely, Book Artist, WA.



There is a $100 minimum on international shipping. Small items ship for $38.00 in a small flat rate box or longer flat ones in an envelope. The next size up box costs $70.00 (13-5/8″ x 11-7/8″ x 3-3/8″ or 11″ x 8-1/2″ x 5-1/2″, 20 lbs max.). Again, this is flat rate so a lot can fit into this. But check with me to be sure. International customers also may be responsible for duty or customs charges, check with your government for details and rates. Shipping large items, such as the Nokey sewing frame, In-situ Book Conservation Fixture, Board slotting machine, etc… can be very, very expensive—consider yourself warned. I’m happy to calculate a price, though I will need the exact shipping address. It might be best to pick it up in person while visiting NYC.


All products are guaranteed for my life. I will repair or replace anything if there is a defect.  This does not cover normal wear and tear. If there is a problem, please contact me and we will discuss options. If you decide you just do not like a knife, I will take it back minus a $40.00 fee for regrinding and sharpening, and give you credit for another purchase.  If the handle is dirty or altered there may be additional charges. This must happen within 30 days of purchase. You will be responsible for paying to ship it back to me. Anyone is more than welcome to visit and try out the knives, and sometimes I sell them at the annual Guild of Book Workers Standards of Excellence conference or while teaching workshops. Please note that the sheaths are not covered by this warranty, they are simply glued together, if they happen to separate, just put a bit of PVA on them. Keep in mind all knives get dull when used, these knives are not guaranteed to stay sharp forever.

I am happy to regrind and sharpen any knife I have made, enquire for shipping instructions, times and costs, it is usually $40 and $10 domestic shipping. Please arrange a visit if you are in New York City, I often have a number of unique and discounted items not in this catalog starting at $25.


Jeff Peachey

37 Nagle Ave., #3C,

New York, NY 10040

cell 212.387.7860

jeffrey (dot) peachey (at) gmail (dot) com


“Without tools, there are no trades.”

19 thoughts on “Store

  1. Andrew B. Middleton

    I just wanted to thank you for your prompt service with those tools I bought recently! I can’t wait to have a book pulling-down day just to use that tool. Also the others!
    Am leaving this place by next Friday (3rd of April) as I’ve been here for 12 years, and the boss doesn’t want me to do bookbinding at work anymore, but seems to think I’ll do it at home for no extra wage!!
    All the best with your “inventions”/ inventiveness.

  2. Rob Hudson

    I just need a minimal set of tools to cut the binding on some books for scanning. Do you offer a subset of these tools? If so, which ones would you recommend?

  3. Jeff Peachey Post author

    I would most likely use a thin Olfa (snap off blade knife) to cut a binding off. The disbinding tool I sell is for cutting the sewing thread on the inside of the signatures while not damaging the paper. The genuine Olfa blades, made in Japan, are much better than cheaper imitations. Of course, if the books are of any value, you will save money in the long run by taking them to a trained professional for disbinding and possibly rebinding. It is surprising how quickly severe damage can occur while disbinding.

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  5. Max J. Smith

    I am looking for a spine shaping block. The pictures I have seen are of a block of wood with grooves of varying diameters. Do you have such an item or know where I might find one? Thanks

  6. Jeff Peachey Post author

    I have seen images similar to what you describe, although I have always read they were made out of cast iron and used for forming spring back spines. The American Bookbinders Museum mentions them. Where to find one? Might be tough. But if you find a beating hammer in your search, please let me know!

  7. Donald Pappa


    The quality of your tools is outstanding. I have come to bookbinding after having been a cabinetmaker for many years. Making tools from hacksaw blades and (my favorite) old crosscut saws is something we all did. However M3 steel, or A2 for that matter is a little different. Those beautiful clean curves on the Swiss style knives have proven to be some what elusive. Might I ask what you use to grind your edges and if you use some king of honing guide.


  8. Jeff Peachey Post author

    Thanks. I make the curve by hand, using a 2 x 72″ Cootie belt grinder with a ceramic platen. There is a link on the right side of the blog.

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  11. Yehuda Miklaf

    Do you still sell the PSA sheets and horse butt without the aluminum plates? How about a blade only for the Stanley spoke shave?
    And hi, how are you?
    Best regards,

  12. Jeff Peachey Post author

    Hi Yehuda- There are links in the catalog above where you can buy PSA sheets, and a horsebutt strop, and the price of a spokeshave blade is above also. Thanks, Jeff

  13. paul

    I love your tools. I’m in the UK and am uncertain if the mailing will be prohibitive. Also I wonder if its possible to pay you using PayPal?

  14. Jeff Peachey Post author

    If they can fit into a USPS Priority envelope (9 x 12 inches, 4 pounds max) is is $20 shipping to the UK, 7-10 days delivery time. I’m not sure what duty is on your end. Yes, I can take paypal.

  15. Charles Dixon III

    I recently came upon an antique guilotine paper cutter made by Rougier Ple. Unfortunately I haven’t had much luck finding any info about it. Can you help me?

  16. Deep Wood Press

    After a successful showing recently at Oak Knoll Fest I decided to treat myself to one of your A2 English paring knives. I don’t know why I’ve waited so long Jeff – I keep pulling pieces of all kinds of leather out of my scrap drawer just to play with it. It’s been awhile since paring was so fun!

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